There’s
an old Vietnamese saying, “Hanoi has thirty-six streets and
guilds". Inside a modern and dynamic city, there appears an
antique quarter, the Hanoi’s Old Quarter – the represented
eternal soul of the city where street names were given after their crafts work taking place in there.
In
fact, Hanoi has of cause many more streets, but due to their
long-lasting age, they are called “Old Quarter” or “36 Old
Streets” remaining the most busy ones in town. Some researchers
believe that the number 36 came from the 15th
century when there might have been 36 guild locations, which were
workshop areas, not streets. When streets were later developed, the
guild names were applied to the streets. Others attribute the 36 to a
more abstract concept. The number nine in Asia represents the concept
of "plenty." Nine times the four directions makes 36, which
simply means "many".
In
fact, there are now more than 70 streets in this area. The population
density in here is one of the highest in the world.
That's
why the Vietnamese government already set a plan to relocate 26.000
residents to other city quarters to reduce the population density
from 823 people per hectare in 2010 to 500 people per hectare in 2020
(DTInews 8.6.2012).
Also plans exist to make some parts of the old quarter a pedestrian
area to minimize air pollution and to attract tourists.
Located
between the Lake of the Restored Sword, the Long Bien Bridge, a
former city rampart, and a citadel wall, the Old Quarter came into
being at the time King Ly Thai To, who selected Thang Long as the
country’s capital in 1010. Up to now, it has been the oldest
continuously developed area of Vietnam.
In the past, as artisans moved to the capital city to do business,
they gathered together in this area to share the resources. As a
result, many of the streets were named after the crafts sold at that
individual street. Pho Hang Bun (Vermicelli), Pho Hang Ma (Paper), Pho Hang Bac (Silver), Pho Lo Ren (Blacksmith) or Pho Hang Dong (Brass) and
many others. Although
many of the streets no longer produce the items they were named for,
some still remain like in the old times, where different handcraft
manufactures produce their goods next to each other. Nowadays,
surrounded by shops that sell cheap Chinese products.
Mr. Nguyen Phuong Hung -
the last Blacksmith in Hanoi's Old Quarter
Pho Lo Ren - Blacksmith Street
I
learned this craft from my father, he learned it from my grandfather. I
took over this business 20 years ago. Now I am the last blacksmith in this street (Pho Lo Ren)
I produce everything. From hammer heads to axes. But
nowadays drill pits for air-hammers I sell the most as of the many
construction works that are going on in Hanoi.
Everybody needs these
tools. I also repair used ones. On a good day I make 15 to 20 US-Dollars.
I have a son and a daughter. I do everything for them to get
a good education. Although my son is helping me sometimes doing my business
after school, he won't take over my manufacture shop.
We are from here and we want to stay here. If the old quarter will be closed for traffic and becomes a pedestrian area only, I think I will loose lots of clients, maybe I have to go somewhere else for work than. Pho Lo Ren (Blacksmith Street) will only remain a name than, without this craft anymore.
Mr. Tuan -
Mechanical engineer
Hang Dong - Brass Street
I produce
ball-bearings, belt wheels and other smaller parts for pushcarts. This is my manufacture place and office, I live upstairs with my wife and two children. My oldest son and his
wife also live with us. I work here everyday, except for Tet (New-Year time),
than we travel to my parents at the countryside.
My neighbors are welders and produce the top frames for the pushcarts. We always work close together to satisfy our clients. I also do special commission work for smaller industries.
These machines that I use for my work are old but
still running well. I care much for them, as my father bought them to
set up this business.
I don't know how long I can go on with my business here, it depends on the costumers. We have enough clients right now, but the manufacturers are getting fewer in the Old Quarter. I think in the next generation these old machinery won't be used anymore as there won't be any more guilds here.
watch the audio-slideshow
